Rick Bayless' low-key Xoco delivers affordable excellence
Phil Vettel Food critic October 8, 2009
Good news for those who wait a half-hour or more to eat at Frontera Grill: Now there's a new
Rick Bayless restaurant where you can wait a half-hour or more to eat.
Xoco, or "little sister" in Aztec, opened Sept. 8 to the kind of foodie buzz and media attention reserved for debuts of major restaurants, not counter-service, soup-and-sandwich operations. But when the name behind Xoco has just finished beating a gaggle of big-name chefs on television's "Top Chef Masters" and is opening his first new restaurant in 20 years (when Topolobampo opened), the usual rules don't apply.
Instead of Oprah and the Obamas, we should have sent Bayless to Copenhagen. Right now, the guy simply can't lose.
But even a guy on a hot streak can feel preopening pressure.
"Shaking in my boots is what I was," Bayless says. "I couldn't sleep for a week, thinking, 'What if this is a total flop?' For the first couple of weeks, it was me being on pins and needles all the time."
Well, given the food I sampled and the daily out-the-door lines, Mr. Bayless can exhale.
More