Happy New Year! Everyone knows that the New Year is a time to think about beginnings, so I thought I’d share some thoughts and ideas about dishes that come at the beginning of the meal or of the event, the “starters.”
Pictured below is one of my favorite starters as a boy, recalled from my childhood Sunday dinners (which I’ve written about in Mission: Cook), my interpretation of my mother’s Shrimp Cocktail. It’s a bit different from the classic American version, which is typically done up with fresh shrimp, a little lemon and a “cocktail sauce” made primarily of horseradish and ketchup. This homey, “Anglicized” version is done in more of a sweet and savory style, and I think, if I may be so bold, has more depth of pure enjoyment. The base here (which in the American version is often crushed ice and a little lettuce) is made up of a salad of red onion, tomatoes, iceberg lettuce and chopped hard-boiled egg, dressed in a kind of Thousand Island-inspired dressing. The beautiful, briny taste of the shrimp pairs wonderfully with the rest, they complement each other, and as you eat them together, the flavor of the shrimp infuses the dressing and after the last one is gone, you’re left with the tasty salad. As a starter, it provides a great, tangy, fresh-tasting contrast with the big roast, the endless parade of potatoes and the sweet desserts that always followed at our house.
Whether you’re creating a single, self-contained biteful, like an amuse bouche, an appetizer, a refreshing salad or a warming soup, you have an opportunity to set the tone for the combinations of flavors to come with these smaller dishes. The more complete and well-considered they are on their own, the better. Think of them almost like a meal within a meal. A classic like Clams Casino can either provide a counterpoint to a nouvelle dish you may be trying, or can prime the taste buds for an absolute classic to follow, like boiled Maine lobster and a baked potato. With salads, freshness and sharpness of flavors are important, and should serve as a wake-up call to the appetite. And nothing beats a deeply warming and satisfying, well-flavored and intense bowl of soup to prime the senses for what’s coming next.
Here are some easy variations on a theme for you to try, if you are so inclined. And here’s wishing you all a prosperous and joyful 2009.
I also wanted to let you know that I am back in the saddle again. We will be starting production on new Dinner: Impossible shows in the next couple of days. I’ve been working out faithfully(!) and I’m pumped in more ways than one to be back on the job. I hope you’ll keep checking in to the blog for updates. Thanks to you all! I promise we’ll be working as hard as we can to make each episode as awesome as possible!
CLAMS CASINO
Copyright 2007, Robert Irvine, All rights reserved..
24 cherrystone clams. well scrubbed
6 strips bacon
1 tablespoon chopped scallions
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
1 tablespoon fresh thyme, chopped
¼ cup Panko breadcrumbs
Salt and pepper to taste
¼ cup grated parmesan cheese
24 small sprigs parsley for garnish
Steam clams in a covered skillet filled with a small amount of water. Discard any clams that do not open. Split top shell off and discard. Leave the clam on the remaining half-shell, but loosen the meat by slicing it at the point where it is attached to the shell. Place on a baking sheet and set aside.
Fry bacon until crisp and set aside on paper toweling to drain. Pour off most of the bacon drippings except for about 1 tablespoon (enough to coat the bottom). In these remaining bacon drippings, sauté scallions, parsley and thyme for a couple of minutes to integrate flavors. Remove from heat and stir in breadcrumbs. Crumble in bacon and combine. Season with salt and pepper as needed.
Preheat the broiler. Spoon herb mixture over the clams on the half shell and sprinkle a small amount of parmesan cheese on top of each. Toast in the broiler and serve garnished with parsley sprigs..
Yield: 6 to 8 servings of 3 to 4 clams each ROMAINE SALAD WITH CARPACCIO OF TOMATO & CUCUMBER
Copyright 2007, Robert Irvine, All rights reserved.
Thousand Island Dressing:
¼ cup ketchup
1 cup mayonnaise
1 tablespoon rice vinegar
1 fresh lemon, zest grated off and juiced
1 tablespoon finely minced chives
1 tablespoon finely minced parsley
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Salad and Tomato & Cucumber Carpaccio:
1large ripe yet firm fresh tomato, very thinly sliced with a mandoline
1 English cucumber, peeled and very thinly sliced with a mandoline
1 ½ cups mixed greens (organic mesclun mix such as arugula, maché, chicory, sorrel) soaked in
salt water to remove grit, thoroughly rinsed, dried in a salad spinner, and shredded into
¼ inch wide pieces
1 heart of romaine, separated into individual leaves
1 tablespoon shaved red onion
To make the salad dressing, whisk together, ketchup mayonnaise, rice vinegar, lemon zest, lemon juice, chives, and parsley. Season to taste with salt and pepper and set aside.
To assemble the carpaccio, place a large tomato slice on each serving plate to be used as the base. Top with 4 thin slices cucumber, distributing evenly atop the tomato. Put a quarter-teaspoon of salad dressing in the center of cucumbers to anchor a romaine leaf placed curved side up. Top romaine with a small amount of shaved red onion.
Place ½ cup of greens alongside carpaccio. Drizzle dressing on and around and serve additional dressing on the side.
Yield: 6 servings
POTATO LEEK SOUP
Copyright 2007, Robert Irvine, All rights reserved
6 potatoes, peeled and cut into large pieces
8 leeks, whites only, thoroughly washed
3 stalks celery, roughly chopped
1 medium onion, peeled and quartered
1 bay leaf
2 quarts chicken stock
½ cup flour
4 ounces (1 stick) melted butter
1 cup heavy cream
1½ teaspoons fresh thyme, chopped fine
Salt and pepper to taste
In a large pot, place potatoes, 4 of the leeks (reserving the rest), celery, onion, bay leaf and chicken stock. Let boil until potatoes are soft. Chop the remaining 4 leeks. Mix flour and butter in small bowl to make a roux for thickening the soup. Add the remaining leeks, roux, cream, fresh thyme, and salt and pepper. Blend soup with an immersion blender (or in batches in a blender or food processor). Simmer for 20 more minutes Remove bay leaf and serve.
Yield: 8 servings Original post blogged on
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