Caracas owner Maribel Araujo makes a case for the steaming, savory, South American bites
By Matt Rodbard
Arepas are commonly confused with those greasy corn and mozzarella cakes served ubiquitously at summer street fairs. Those are Americanized mozzarepas people! And while they're pretty damn tasty on their own, they're not the Venezuelan street-cart staple served at Caracas Brooklyn, a new Williamsburg branch of the popular East Village café.
In 2003, former advertising creative Maribel Araujo began selling her version out of a tiny storefront on East Seventh Street, and soon homesick South American expats like actor Gael Garcia Bernal, along with adventurous East Villagers, packed the dozen seats. Waits bordered on Lombardi's length. The reason? A perfect combination of thrift (around $6 a pop) and straight-up deliciousness (we hate to drop the D word, but it's appropriate).
Araujo's arepa, executed by longtime chef Ilse Parra, is a cross between a stuffed pita and taco: A semi-sweet cornmeal cake is grilled and then baked, creating both a deep crunch and soft inside. The palm-size shell is then stuffed with a variety of savory fillings, from guacamole and farm cheese to shredded beef and roasted pork shoulder. The wisest diners garnish the steaming pocket with a burst of Araujo's secret (life-changing) vinegar sauce.
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